What Is Included In A Home Inspection?

What Is Included In A Home Inspection?

                                                              Written by: Jeff Howells

                                                            Professional Home Inspector

                                                             

So, you have put in an offer on a home you are looking to purchase, and your realtor advises you to have a home inspection done. Most people do not use home inspectors very often, so having one that you know and trust in your contact list is probably unlikely. Your realtor will typically have a short list of companies that they have worked with in the past, and recommend.....but what is the inspector actually looking for? We have complied a list of items that all inspectors should be inspecting in order to meet the industry Standard Of Practice. This list is not all encompassing but it gives you an idea of what to expect. (different associations carry different standards that their inspectors must work to, but they are all fairly similar)

Keeping in mind that a home inspection is a visual inspection, and invasive testing and inspection methods are not permitted (ie. cutting holes in walls), a standard home inspection should include the following.

1) EXTERIOR: A complete examination of the exterior of the property:

Roofing material, wall cladding, windows, doors, trim, soffits, gutters and downspouts, lot grading, retaining walls, decks, fences, pergolas, sun-rooms and detached garages will be inspected and documented in the inspection report.

2) MECHANICALS: This will include an inspection and testing of the heating and air conditioning system, plumbing and electrical systems. Any items found not working correctly, or near the end of their typical life cycle's, will be noted in the inspection report.

3) STRUCTURE: A visual inspection of all visible areas of the structure on the home. foundation walls, floor, wall and roof framing.

4) INSULATION: Insulation material in the walls (if visible) and in the attic will be documented and measured for depth to give a general R-Value. 

5) INTERIOR: The entire interior of the home will be inspected. Appliances are tested via normal operating controls, plumbing fixtures tested, electrical outlets are also tested for correct wiring and safety functions. 

The inspection should take approximately 2-3 hours depending on the condition and size of the home. Any defects will be photographed and noted in the inspection report.

THE REPORT: Your inspection report is required to be ready within 24 hours of the inspection. Some companies will have it for you the same day. It should detail everything that was inspected, with recommendations (and photos) for repairs/improvements and timelines for said items. If a component was not inspected, it must be detailed as to why.

ADDITIONAL SERVICES

Some companies will have additional services that you can add to your home inspection. Thermal Imaging, Radon testing, Mold and Indoor Air Quality testing, Sewer line Inspections, are some examples. Check with your service provider to see what they offer.

THINGS TO BE AWARE OF

1) Be aware of inspectors carrying multiple certifications. 

On average it takes 4 years for someone to become a Journeyman tradesman. So, if your inspector is claiming to be "certified" in multiple areas, asking for clarification might be prudent. That's not to say that the inspector is not qualified or does a bad job, but it can be misleading. For example, there are Home Inspector Associations that offer "Certification Courses" to their members. IE: Certified Electrical Inspector, Certified Plumbing Inspector, Certified Septic Inspector, Certified Mold Inspector ect. and the inspector can hold any number of these certifications. (there's more than 45 of them!) There is a lot of good information in the courses, but they are designed as a marketing tool, both for the association to attract more members, and for the inspector to advertise to their clients. However, the certifications are not recognized anywhere outside of the Association, and they are not the same as a Journeyman or Red Seal Ticket in a specific trade. 

2) Beware of warranties and guaranties offered on inspection services: 

YOUR HOME INSPECTED RIGHT OR WE'LL BUY IT!!  Warranties and guaranties are insurance policies, again typically offered through the inspectors association. There will be a long list of limitations and items that are excluded from the policy, and a deductible will apply. Again, these are designed to be more of a marketing tool than a safety net for the client. 

Click on the image to view a sample inspection report!

Ph: 587-318-1440

E: jeff@nulevelinspections.com

Web: www.NuLevelInspections.com

TESTING FOR MOLD

Mold spores are everywhere in our environment, indoors and outdoors. Certain spores can lead to allergy symptoms, while others can become more harmful. In the course of a home inspection, clients are most often concerned with mold as a result of water damage, but high indoor humidity levels can also cause significant issues for occupants.

HOW CAN YOU IDENTIFY A POTENTIAL MOLD PROBLEM? 

the indoor environment might seem damp or musty. There can be signs of moisture in basements or attics, or you may notice windows have some condensation build-up during the winter months.

A hygrometer can be purchased from most hardware stores, and will measure air’s water-vapor content in the home. A home’s relative humidity should be between 30% to 50% RH. (This will change a lot as it gets colder outside. See chart below)

Nu Level Inspections Inc. offers (IAQ) Indoor Air Quality assessments. This service can be added to any home inspection, or done as a separate assessment. During these inspections our home inspector will go through the  home and identify potential problems, including moisture issues that can lead to mold. They will also take 3 air samples (one outdoor and two indoor air samples), which are then sent to a certified lab for analysis. You will receive a complete report of all spore counts, their typical sources, and any recommendations for further action, if needed.

What does Mold Need To Grow?

 Mold feeds off of many building materials found in homes, such as paper, wood and carpeting. The ideal temperature for mold growth is 77°F to 86°F. It also needs a moisture source. Generally, that moisture will come from water leaks, high humidity, or condensation. If the conditions are not right, the mold will go dormant and not grow. 

How Do You Remove Mold?

If the mold is on a surface that can be cleaned, simply wash it away with a soapy solution. You must be very thorough because any remaining spores will be able to regenerate. If the mold has made it into your walls or carpet, there is a good chance those materials will need to be removed.

                       WHAT IS AN ICE DAM?

 

        Written By:  Jeff Howells

         Professional Home Inspector

         Owner at Nu LeveL Inspections Inc.

 An ice dam is ice that forms at the roof edge. The gutters become filled with ice and prevent melting snow (water) from draining off the roof. The water can back up behind the dam, and under the shingles, and leak into the home and causing damage to walls, ceilings, insulation, and other areas.

Ice dams are a result of basically 3 conditions:

1) Snow on the roof

2) Heat loss from the building into the attic space

3) Nonuniform roof surface temperatures

This winter has been a long one in Calgary (2017-18). Lots of snow and extended periods of cold temperatures have taken a toll, especially on homes susceptible to ice dams. What happens is this:

The roof surface is warmer near the ridge than it is near the gutters. This is because heat loss from the house warms up the upper surface, while the areas over the soffits, stay cold. The snow melts, runs down the roof and re-freezes as it reached the gutters. This process continues (as long as it stays cold outside), untils the gutters are full of ice and the water can no longer drain away. The more snow there is, and the longer it remains cold outside, the larger and more problematic the dams become. With a large snow load on a roof, the dams can become quite large and often dangerous, as large icicles can form.

How To Fix It?

Temporary Action: Remove the snow from the roof. Be careful not to damage the shingles. A roof rake can be used to safely remove the snow. We do not recommend walking on a roof covered in ice and snow, for obvious reasons.

Permanent Action: Seal all ceiling penetrations into the attic. Lighting fixtures, bathroom exhaust fans, attic hatch, speakers in ceilings, recessed lighting ect. all need to be properly sealed to prevent heat loss. (See our blog on Attic Rain). Next, increase insulation levels and attic ventilation. This will keep the attic space cold and prevent the snow on the roof from melting. This will also cut down on your heating costs. 

 

Jeff Howells is a Professional Home Inspector and a member of  the Alberta Professional Home Inspectors Society (APHIS).

                               Technology. Performance. Service

Email: jeff@nulevelinspections.com

Ph: 587.318.1440

Web: www.nulevelinspections.com

What Is Attic Rain?

It's winter in Calgary and we have experienced some very cold temperatures this year. While some people love our winter season, others can't wait for it to be done, especially when it reeks havoc with your home. We have been called out to a couple of homes this year to investigate a common problem with regards to moisture. More specifically, water stains on attic ceilings, and water leaking through ceiling light fixtures! It's call Attic Rain, and it is a common problem for a lot of homes built within the last 15 years or so. 

What is it?

Attic rain happens when large accumulations of frost in the attic, quickly melt due to warm outdoor temperatures, causing water damage to the home. It's is caused by a combination of 4 contributing factors: 

1) Air leakage from the home into the attic via ceiling penetrations. (pot lights and bathroom fans are the main ones)

2) A higher air pressure inside the home than outside.

3) Humidity levels in the home are too high for cold outdoor temperatures.

4) Inadequate attic ventilation. (Non-venting soffits)

New homes are built to be very energy efficient, which means they are insulated and sealed up to be as air-tight as possible. Reduced air leakage means lower heating and cooling costs, great! But the devil is in the details, and if the details are not done properly, problems can arise.

Imagine it's -25°C outside, you have the thermostat set to 21, and the humidifier set to 40% (because that's what the builder told you to do, to keep the new hardwood floors from drying out). If the air pressure inside the home is even slightly higher than outdoor pressure, the house air will pass through openings in the exterior walls and ceilings to move to the lower pressure areas. As it escapes into the -25° attic, from things like pot lights and bathroom exhaust fans, the warm humid air, condenses and freezes when it contacts the cold surface of the roof deck. The problem is compounded due to non-venting soffits installations (now a fire code and Alberta building code requirement) reducing the amount of attic ventilation needed to help the attic breathe.  The longer it stays cold outside, the more frost accumulates.  Once it warms up outside, the frost melts, and presents itself in the forms of water stains on the ceiling, water streaks running down the exterior surface of walls, leaks from ceiling fixtures etc. The insulation will also be wet, and roof framing members can be wet to the point of saturation. 

Melted frost from the attic running down the siding.

With the thermal camera, water in the attic is visible.

How do we prevent it?

1)     Fill the holes

First you must identify and fix the “holes” in the ceiling. Things like pot lights, bathroom exhaust fans, attic hatches must all be 100% sealed, to prevent house air from spilling into the cold attic. An assessment should be done to identify the leakage spots and seal the holes to prevent further leakage.

Bathroom exhaust fan not sealed














Holes in a pot light vapor barrier boot

2)     Balance the air pressure in the home

A HRV (heat recovery ventilator) is typically used for this. It helps balance the indoor air pressure and provides an air exchange for the home by exhausting the same volume of air as it draws in. It also provides an extra level of efficiency to the furnace by preheating the incoming air (outside air) with the heat from the exhausted air (house air). It provides higher indoor air quality as well. If your home does not have an HRV it should be equipped with some type of ventilation system. There should be a wall switch located near the thermostat labled "ventilaion fan", turn it on.
3)     Adjust the humidity level
If your house has a humidifier installed, you will need to adjust the humidity setting regularly, but the only way to know what the actual relative humidity reading is in the home is to measure it. You will need a hygrometer for this. Amazon is a good place to find one, and they're fairly inexpensive. As the temperature drops, lower the humidity level. This is done by running the ventilation system(s), HRV's, kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans, etc. Even simply opening a window or two will help. (providing it's not too cold outside) -25°C outdoor temperature = approx. 10% RH indoor.

4)     Non-venting soffits

For homes built after 2009, a change in the Alberta Fire Code states that roof soffits that project into the side yard be non-vented to help prevent fire from an adjacent property from spreading into the attic space. This requirement reduces the amount of airflow into the attic space. Regular roof vents are now installed at the edge of the roof to accommodate for this change, but homes built directly after the code change likely do not have them installed.

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How do you know if the house you are looking at has been renovated properly?

                                           

                                               Home Inspections and Building Diagnostics

Signs of a bad renovation

Each year, homeowners take on home remodeling projects both large and small. Some of these projects are DIY improvements, like painting or adding a kitchen back-splash, and others are major renovations. 
As a home inspection firm, we inspect many homes that have had varying degrees of renovations, done with varying degrees of success. Some are top notch professional jobs, while others were done with no clear sense of direction, skill or budget. So, as a home buyer, how do you know if the house you are looking at has been renovated properly? 

Things to look for:

1) Permits - If the house is being advertised as "newly renovated", then there should have been permits taken out for any electrical, plumbing, structure, gas line etc. modifications that wold have been done during the renovation. Safety codes officers typically put a sticker on the electrical panel, and sign and date it if the work has been done to meet current building code. If you don't see a sticker, contact your local jurisdiction to see if any permits were pulled for that property. 

2) Poor finishes - Look at things like baseboards, window and door trim, drywall work, paint, flooring etc. If the finish carpentry work is sloppy, (details you can see), that can be a good indication to the quality of work inside the walls (details you can't see). 

Perfect! Ready for paint!

                                                  Oops. Oh well, good enough.

Cheap Building Materials - When you walk into a property, it may look beautiful at first glance, but a closer look at each room reveals laminate counter-tops that are made to look like granite, textured wallpaper that’s looks like a back-splash, cheap cabinets, a plastic chandelier, pot lights not rated for use near insulation etc. One of the biggest mistakes that people make when renovating, is they try to be cheap when they buy materials. The bottom line is, you get what you pay for.

Old furnace and water heater - It's just as important that the plumbing, heating, and electrical equipment are as up to date as the rest of the renovation. I've met lots of buyer's who were blown away by a flawless renovation, but never thought to check the utility room. They are shocked when during the home inspection we find the furnace, electrical panel and water heater are old, inefficient, and way past their intended life expectancy. All of a sudden that "newly renovated" home needs $7000 - $10,000 worth of utility upgrades (depending on the size of the home) that no one was expecting.

There are many other areas of the home that a good home inspector will check during the course of their inspection, but these are a few easy things that anyone can look for.

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How To Improve Air Quality In A New Home

How To Improve Air Quality In A New Home

Air quality and ventilation in a house are very important for personal health and comfort. Stagnant, dirty air can cause unpleasant odors and problems for those with respiratory issues such as asthma. 

 Older homes can suffer from excessive air leakage, causing increased heating and cooling costs, and discomfort from cold drafts in the winter. The good news is through it's inherent defects, an older home can have a good supply of fresh air.

New homes on the other hand, are designed and built to be energy efficient, with a small amount of air leakage. This is great for keeping heating and cooling costs low, it also means odors, moisture, pet dander etc. can be trapped in the home. A mechanical ventilation system needs to be present to allow the house to breath and to get fresh air into the home, and exhaust old stale air to the outdoors. Here are some things that can be done to improve air quality in your new home.

1) Heat Recovery Ventilators - (HRV)

 These devices are very common in new homes. They work in conjunction with the furnace and/or principal exhaust fan to remove stale air and bring in fresh air, transferring some of the heat from the exhaust air into the incoming air to reduce heat loss in the heating season.  If you have one, it will be installed in the utility room, and will be hanging from the ceiling. There are reusable filters inside the unit which need to be cleaned regularly. Some are static systems, while others have fans installed in them to help pressure balance the air in the home. They can be retro-fit into older homes if needed, but are fairly expensive. An HRV may be required by building code in newer homes.

This photo illustrates the                                                                          Standard installation 

 air flow through a 

Heat Recovery Ventilator

The core and filters inside the HRV

2) Change furnace filters regularly

Furnace filters play an important role helping keep the furnace clean. They should be replaced every 4-6 months to ensure optimum performance. A clean furnace means cleaner air.

3) Run exhaust fans

In addition to removing odors and moisture, kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans can also help the ventilation process. Some new homes also have a principal exhaust fan. If your new home has one, there will be, what looks like a light switch located on the main floor, (probably in the hallway, close to the thermostat) labeled "ventilation fan". It works with the same principal as a HRV, without the actual HRV unit. A principal exhaust fan works via a secondary fan unit (also located in the basement ceiling) and air ducts only. It provides an air exchange in the home, exhausting old air and bringing in fresh air. A principal exhaust fan may be required for new homes without a HRV. 

4) Open windows

As easy as it is, opening the windows on a nice day is a very effective way to improve air quality.

5) Air Purifiers

Air purification systems can run up to 99% efficiency for removing dust, pollen, bacteria, pet dander, mold spores, and other airborne particles. 

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By following these tips, you can have a fresher, healthier home!

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